Marco De Vincenzo is making his mark on Etro, including his personal perspective to the label’s signature parts. At a pre-fall showroom appointment, he sounded assured; after the spring present, “the route appears clearer,” he stated. The potion he’s concocting to convey Etro ahead is an element heritage, half private idiosyncrasies—a calibrated alchemy.
“If a model’s patrimony has sturdy foundations,” he reasoned, “as a inventive you progress inside a fringe that protects its survival, whereas on the identical time defending the integrity of your interpretation.” De Vincenzo delights in deep-dives into the archives; this season, he labored on the masculine templates of Etro’s beginnings in addition to on its romantic bohemian legacy—two apparently antithetical components laced by the aptitude for immersive ornament intrinsic to its character.
Etro’s concept of masculinity has all the time been unconventional, tinged with a debonair, dandy angle. De Vincenzo picked upon the identical vibe within the female translation of the traditional masculine swimsuit, supplied right here in outsized renditions, both in tie-like heraldic jacquards or pinstriped, worn over sporty sweats with silk hoods printed in paisley motifs. Being one of many label’s signifiers, the boteh was given an immersive remedy in stretchy knitted tube attire, paired with lengthy matching stoles; combined with florals, it prettified the fluid, unfussy silhouettes which can be De Vincenzo’s tackle the boho look. They regarded much less elaborate and flouncy than previous iterations. “I’m not going radically minimalistic,” De Vincenzo stated. “But what I’m attempting to do is to maintain the method a bit extra rigorous, to scale back somewhat than amplify. I wish to problem myself in staying genuine, each to the model and to myself.”